Basement Renovation

How to Body: Aspect one – Framing a Wall





In portion one of this three-portion series, we’ll understand how to frame a wall in a area. I am demonstrating how to frame a wall in my basement but this method applies to basements, attics, shops or any other house. This is a fairly prolonged video simply because you will find a ton to go in excess of but be positive to observe this video prior to moving on to video clips 2 and three, which target on framing Windows and Doors as well as Closets and Soffits.

Windows and Doors:
Soffits and Closets:

Do you have tips, tricks or strategies? I am constantly open to understanding how to do matters far better so remember to share what you know! Thoughts are welcome as well. Excellent luck with your venture!

37 comments

  1. I want to build three different sheds, one is already set up. I am pleased to find all the plans and designs for the three sheds included in Ryan's shed plans [Check Details Here⇒>https://paper.dropbox.com/doc/My-Shed-Plan-OcMcPKuDVYpKlAmwuZcDy ]. And how very easy they all are to set up following the detailed instructions on the manual and DVDs. This is simply fantastic!

    Reply
  2. how would OSHA feel about aiming the nailgun towards your own foot?

    Reply
  3. Thanks for the video. Way more detail than others I've seen. But 3 questions.

    1. How do you insulate the walls? Is there a video for that part?
    2. Every video I've seen says to be at least 1 inch from the walls but none have explained exactly where that measurement commes from and why it's in place. So, why and from where exactly.
    3. If there is a gap then why drill holes in the studs? Is this simply to make future electrical repairs easier?

    Say I have insulated my concrete blocks (my wall). Am I supposed to be 1 inch or more away from the insulation now, laying the edge of both the top and bottom boards at up against the 1+ inch mark (not centered, but the actual edge of the board to 1+ inch mark)? So in effect, wall, then insulation, then 1+ inch (making a 1+ inch gap between the insulation and the new walls? And if so, why? What does the gap do for me?

    Sorry if I'm asking stupi questions but I've never done this before.

    Reply
  4. Your layout  is incorrect. And, if you only allow 1/8" short you'll never tilt the wall in place.

    Reply
  5. Hey Nails.

    Reply
  6. buen video
    construccion

    Reply
  7. im about to build walls inside my detached garage. Do I need to double plate the frame at all?

    Reply
  8. just subbed. Great work!

    Reply
  9. What details can you give on how you mounted the vapor barrier? What size hex head and where do you get that huge washer?

    Reply
  10. Nice work. Are you required to do 16"OC studs or can you get away with 24" OC since none of these walls are load bearing?

    Reply
  11. Did you go to school for carpentry? If so, where? You seem to have formal training.

    Reply
  12. Hi Nils! For measuring the stud lengths I have seen different theories . Some measure each stud and cut to length less 1/8" , and some do as you are with using all same lengths. I am finding that my individual cut lengths make it hard and tighter to stand up a wall. If I use your method, however, my gap could be up to 1/2" from top plate to joist. That would still be ok right, assuming I use 5/8" sheet rock? As an example my stud measurements were from 86 1/2 to 87 (this included the subtraction of 1/8" from measurement). I'd like to use your method but am not sure that 1/2" gap is ok. Any thoughts?

    Reply
  13. Thanks brotha. Dope Star Wars shirt btw.

    Reply
  14. Nils, don't forget.. NEVER load the Ramset first, then the nail…. Place the nail first, then load the charge. It could always accidentally fire with the charge in there as you're putting a nail in the barrel. Great video!

    Reply
  15. Good video but too much rambling and less doing lol

    Reply
  16. You're so annoying and suck at explaining things. Please just delete your YouTube I hate you so much

    Reply
  17. COOL VIDS LRN2DIY CHECK ME OUT !!!!

    Reply
  18. CHECK OUT MY VIDS SUBSCRIBE IF YOU LIKE !!!!!CONSTRUCTION !!!

    Reply
  19. noggins??

    Reply
  20. The guy is really handsome.

    Reply
  21. Hey Nils, I'm having trouble measuring for my windows and doors. I was told to leave 1/2 in all the way around windows and doors so if I'm framing for a 30×60 window what's the space I need? and a 30×80 door? I usually end up with a tight fit and have to cut out some studs

    Reply
  22. I love doing timber stud work – it's very satisfying – but these days metal studs are so much quicker, cheaper, straighter and easier for non load bearing walls. Some good tips here.

    Reply
  23. I made it myself thanks to woodprix website

    Reply
  24. can you explain the splicing of the two studs? Is there a requirement with blocking? I have a situation where 16 oc is occuring right at the end of an 8 foot stud and dont know best way to proceed. perhaps just butt another stud right next to it and measure 16oc from the first stud?

    Reply
  25. How do I know if I need a fire block above my framed wall? like you did. I have an unfinished basement of a town home,, I can see at the top there are 2 slabs of sheet rock above the concrete. I would like to get started framing my exterior walls. thanks

    Reply
  26. do you have any videos on how to build a wall at an angle?

    Reply
  27. great vid man. good advice. thanks

    Reply
  28. Great tips… Good catch on the FireStop 🙂

    Reply
  29. Here's my question….When you frame over the insulation that's tacked to the foundation, do you still put insulation between your studs? I'm about to start my basement and was thinking it was best to rip it all down and insulate between studs. thoughts?

    Reply
  30. What this F! Is your house made of? OSB? Shame on yourself. That's the cheapest, weakest floor joists. I prefer mud and rocks

    Reply
  31. Can I press my studs against my vapor barrier? The room isn't very big and coming away from the wall 2-3" will give me even less area.

    Reply
  32. Nils great job I am a retired General contractor in residential and you did a great job, my only comment would be using correct terminology for your videos, any time you are checking alignment on a vertical plane it is not called level it is called plumb. And you might stress safety for those less experienced DIYers. But it was a great job.

    Reply
  33. I am curious about the sheeting on the concrete walls? I am in the mdiwest and houses here do not have that plastic and what appears to be insulation underneath? We can add it when we finish the basement but it is not done by the builder. Just bare concrete walls. Is it code there? I have seen that before in Colorado before.

    Reply
  34. it's very interesting, I'm three weeks into my construction class and I find your video very helpful. thanks for sharing

    Reply
  35. when you are measuring 16 inches on center the studs won't be 16 inches on center if you place the stud to the left of the 16 inch mark. shouldn't you measure 16 inches > then draw your line 3/4 inch back from 16 inches? This would create the line that your stud is to be placed against, thus making the center of the stud 16 inches apart. Since a stud is 1.5 inches thick you have to place the center of the stud at 16 inches ergo decrease your line marking by 3/4 inch. Am i right in my thinking?

    Reply
  36. My personal view is never build in a basement without a weep screed along the exterior (before concrete is poured, or can be retro-fited.) and a drain tile to a sump pump. Sooner or later water will get passed the perimeter walls and into your basement for any number of reasons (or plumbing leaks). While it can be done for almost nothing as the house is being built, it costs $7-8K to do it after, but you'll never have to worry about mold or leaks. I've never torn out a basement living area without finding some rot/leaks/mold.

    Reply
  37. thanks😎

    Reply

Leave a Reply