Kitchen Cabinet

Blind Corner Cabinet





I hacked together a cool configuration for making use of all the space in a blind corner…if only I could create the hardware I need to make it operate smoothly!

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29 comments

  1. A wise person once told me, "sometimes it helps to walk away from a problem and clear your head and then go back when you're refreshed". I've taken that advice in lots of areas. Maybe that's all you need to do, cuz it looks to me like you're on to something there. I see this was from 5yrs ago, did you ever get it worked out?

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  2. After all that work, and getting so close to success–I'd say, Okay, I DESERVE this, I deserve to have this and so I am going to bite the bullet and shell out the $3-$400 for Rev-a-shelf's Blind corner cabinet and simply be happy I got what I wanted. I wouldn't be able to just spend that much because I "wanted it" but because after trying so darn hard to do it on my own to save the money, I'd feel I actually deserved that treat now.

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  3. great channel and long time sub. weird question but, what model are the grey nike sneakers you are wearing? thanks 3:54

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  4. Sandra don’t give up. I’m a professional truck tech and have been for around 45 years. I’m occasionally faced with those kind of problems that doesn’t right away present a straight forward solution. There is a logical solution you just need to think on it; it’ll come to you in the middle of the night 😂. This is an excellent approach and I’m going to work on it because I have the same problem.

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  5. how about a glide on the top and one on the bottom for stability, on the first chunk you pull out, or maybe stiffer hinges, ?

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  6. Mount the pull out cabinet slides onto the side of the drawer cabinet ( that's normally hidden inside ) so the first cabinet can be pulled out completely like before except its mounted onto the drawer cabinet, this will allow you to fully extend the first cabinet out then move the whole thing to the right to give you access to the drawers, you will have to stabilize the drawers because of the weight of the pull out cabinet attached to it, some blind corner optimisers do this except they use wire baskets instead of drawers which I prefer because pull out swing is not robust

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  7. I Realise I'm late to this party, how about setting the pull out on bottom running drawer slides with an extra supporting one at the top. Then the concealed box raised higher so that it will slide across over the top of the bottom slides? Just looked at the publish date, you've probably moved house by now!

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  8. This is a fantastic idea!!! I wonder if the piano hinge and the piece of wood that allows for the cabinet to roll out were shorter than the pull out shelves if it would be any better??? I am going to try your idea when I move in to my house!!!

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  9. You are my hero

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  10. Hello,
    I think the problem is that your first component is in free rotation which make it unstable, so what you need is to make it slide too and not only the 5" part and to do so, you have to block the rotation when sliding it in. What I suggest for you to do:
    * First, you could use some kind of magnetised system or the invisible hinges you used at the beginning of this video, in order to block the rotation before rolling the component inside the cabinet .
    * Besides, the 5" part is not suffcient to support all the weight, so for the sliding system, you could use a rail inside the cabinet and bearings in the component 1 and the 5" part like this one (http://www.pbclinear.com/Images/Items/prod_crt_Hevi-Rail_Profile_Rail.jpg), but be carefull the measerment should be as precise as possible.
    Finally, I hope that will do the work for your nice system and good luck 😉

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  11. Sigh, time wasting video.

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  12. Queue the male with toolbelt stage left… 🙂

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  13. You have a great design, and it just needs a tweek to make it work. You will have to make both your storage units 3" shorter. The plywood on the right side with a slide on the top and bottom is a great idea now convert that into a 2" tall drawer by adding 3 more 2" high pieces this will allow you to add a slide to the bottom on the left side. Add a 2" tall rail on the left attached to the bottom of the cabinet to mount the left slide to. You will have to make your other pullout drawer unit 3" shorter and raise them up to clear the 2" drawer slides on the bottom. Hope this makes sense. You had a great idea don't give up..

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  14. I think I'm in love!!

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  15. Thank you for your energy. I love it. I'm a handyman and hate giving up on things and usually I don't. In the end, I inevitably reach my goal. Though time and $$$ sometime gets lost, I always have "fun"!

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  16. Awesome tenacity!  I found a blind corner solution called LeMans II System which I used in my house.  After many years in the carpentry business this is by far the nicest solution I've seen.  Easy to install and works flawlessly!

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  17. I know how you could have done this with relative ease .. I literally just watched the lady on this video /watch?v=_IoBHKV7o-A put the inside draw on a board so that it rolls out and leaves a gap beneath it. That gap would allow you to put a roller on the bottom on the front draw. just line it up accurately and adjust the hardware to slide in smoothly

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  18. My gosh! Could you be anymore amazing! I seriously envy your ability! You rock!!

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  19. I would never go to that much trouble to conserve space, that said, I truly admire your ingenuity! I like your perseverance.

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  20. Great job on trying all that stuff and doing it yourself!!!

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  21. We're in the same situation but not nearly as handy as you are. But is it feasible to ditch the piano hinge and have the first section on 2 sets of gliders? The first set would be to pull it forward, the second to pull it to the side. The problem is you'd have to reinforce the heck out of it and only keep lightweight items in the first unit. The second unit would only need to slide to the side but you could have it slide forward as well. I hope this inspires you!

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  22. You have moved on from this almost 2 years ago and probably don't want to touch this again but that wasted space in the corner of your cabinet is now bothering me (thanks btw). I had a similar situation – short depth spice rack cabinet on slides. It was built with solid maple and it was heavy. The slides could be aligned within a mm or two and they would function but they were not smooth. To function smoothly without any binding the alignment of the slides needs to be exact for a short throw slide. Tighten one set of slides (top) so there is no movement but leave the bottom slides a tad looser so the screws will allow natural alignment. Block up the bottom of the cabinet so the weight of the cabinet does not throw the alignment off when fully extended, then tighten the crap out of the bottom slide screws. And drill more anchor points if needed.
    You might also want to try 3 slides mounted to the sides of the cabinet vs. the two slides you had mounted to the top and bottom of the cabinet. (the slides aren't designed to function properly in the up and down (facing each other) vertical alignment.
    There is a way of doing what you want to do – keep at it.

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  23. hey there, just found your channel great stuff, dont know if you already worked out this dreadfull issue, but im currently in similar position and hate to waste space as well, im currently trying something similar with your first configuration but instead of sliders ill be using ball bearings, hardwood and book hinges, if you are interest ill let you know how it turned out and send you some images. Again, great stuff

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  24. a grease fire will get you a whole new kitchen

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  25. I'd recommend befriending a good metal fabricator. They might be able to whip up something that would work great and be more sturdy compared to wood.

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  26. Have you looked at the commercial blind corner pull out shelf for some ideas? such as rev-a-shelf?

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  27. Hi, great idea!!! I know you've moved away from it, but I think with a little modification you could make it work. You should look at the blind corner unit from Knape & Vogt, and modify yours to something similar. I would use two full extension slides on the side of your rolling drawer unit to mount your swing out box to. You would have to modify the swing out unit slightly to work with the new configuration as it would no longer swing out, but pull out and then move to the side when you roll the drawer unit over. The slides should handle the weight of the unit so it slides in and out better. I think it would be a shame to give up on such a good thing after so much effort…

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  28. Hide and seek is definitely the best solution I have ever heard. Feeling your pain on this one.

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  29. I know how to handle the engineering.
    The trick with the 'first component' is to prevent the vertical 5" cleat from racking on it's slides. This is accomplished with a cable and two pulleys. You still need slides and you can use regular heavy duty ones like you've already tried with all the ball bearings. The cable will force the sliding 5" cleat to stay perfectly plumb without the weight of the cabinet making the top slide open farther than the bottom one. Once you figure this out you can probably even make that vertical cleat that slides horizontally only a couple inches wide.
    Here goes:
    You know those stranded wire curtain 'rods' they sell at IKEA? (You might be able to use one of those or you might have to just buy some 1/8" wire rope and cobble something together.)
    One end of the cable needs to be securely fastened at the rear of the right cabinet wall by the back end of the top slider. The cable then goes horizontally to the vertical sliding part where there is a pulley attached to the top end of it. The cable goes over the pulley then descends vertically along the cleat, then under another pulley mounted at the bottom end of the cleat. From there the cable continues horizontally toward the front again along the bottom slider to the lower right corner of the cabinet. With this Z arrangement, the steel cable would have to stretch to allow the cabinet to tilt, but the vertical cleat with the cable attached can still slide easily. You'll need some sort of turn buckle arrangement at the lower right corner of the cabinet that adjusts the length of the cable. Loosen the cable and the cabinet tilts toward the floor. Tighten it and the cabinet lifts up.

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